The Awakening

In Zanzibar a few weeks ago some Catholic churches were firebombed. We had no problems and Salum assured us that no one would ever harm us. 

On our way in to Stone Town on Sunday we drove past hundreds of people walking towards what I assume is normally a soccer field. This day they were walking towards a political rally of Zanzibarian nationalism. They have a word for it which I can't recall but it's "the awakening".

This is the history as I understand it: Zanzibar was a part of Oman until 1962. At that point there was a violent revolution. The violent revolution involved killing and beating between the Arabs (Omanis) and Africans (mainlanders and those that had been on Zanzibar). A lot of this hard feeling between the two groups would be that Oman had run a very profitable slave trade of Africans before the British Navy shut it down. Once the revolution happened, the new leaders of Zanzibar were eager to quickly legitimize what they had done and proposed a union between Z and Tanganyika. They combined to become Tanzania.

Ever since that time, Zanzibarians have generally felt that they have gotten a raw deal in the union. Now the Imams (Zanzibar is 98% Muslim, compared to the mainland which is 50%) are leading the Awakening to try and become their own country. The churches were destroyed because they are a symbol of the mainland.

Someone might say, but the country of Tanzania has 44 million and Zanzibar has 1 million but a third of the seats in the house and all sorts of political clout so they would actually have less power as an individual nation and maybe the Imam's are interested in being in control rather than doing what's best for Zanzibar.

cred

We have been informed that one of the workers saw "Mama" Josey on the TV. She spoke in English for her interview so he doesn't know what she said but he found out she works in solar power. Now she feels like she has some cred with the guys in the yard.

In other news, Josey's projects are going well and the government is very pleased. Now there is more buy-in. Hopefully that will manifest itself in some more projects even if Josey's organization won't be involved.

Z-bar

Last weekend was spent in a superlative fashion. We went to Zanzibar and were initially disappointed that we were heading to the North (formerly backpacker haunt of fame, lately of resort fame) to meet some friend obligations. It was off-season so the beach boys (beach side hawkers real or imagined boat trips, snorkeling trips, craptacular souvenirs, etc) were not out in full force.

We arrived early Friday and were met by our old taxi driver Salum (Mom & Auntie - he asked how you're doing). Josey and I spent the day kicking around Stone Town. We bought some crafts and then I was able to recreate the walk to the sandal shop (Josey had been back in September looking but had been unsuccessful). Upon studying a map later I discovered that I had gone roughly four times further than I needed to (anyone familiar with the layout of the town will understand). The sandal maker remembered me -- or claimed to have after looking at my sandals. We bought a few pairs to be picked up on Sunday before flying back to Dar and went on our way.

We tried to watch the sunset at the Africa Club but it was the first overcast day I've encountered in my six months in East Africa (which was good because normally I have to follow up a half hour jaunt in Stone Town with a two hour swim and a Tusker baridi -- it is usually that freaking hot). We were at the airport to pick up our French Canadian pals when, in the dark, Joanne was tugged on the sleeve by a gaggle of six girls.

They were the six girls we had met when they stayed at our place the week before. They were back from Arusha and were wrapping up their trip with ten more days in Zanzibar. They were gushing about their trip. The boy, who had been helping Dad with the luggage, loved the safari much more than the Granby Zoo.

Then we booted north. I was vaguely terrified that we would pick off one of the people on the street. We were going a hundred km/h, they were walking and talking on a cool Friday evening.

Our hotel was pretty fantastic with a deck out over the ocean on high tide (it was called Langi Langi and if you have to go to the north, you should stay here - folks come from other hotels to eat here and even if they are "resorts" they are really quite small (30 rooms?) and not behemoths like in Jamaica). Oh, and the hotel manager was a pretty fun guy. He informed me that all the beach boys should be put in a container and fed to the lions. The image I have is of them in tupperware.

Saturday and Sunday were overcast for the most part but there was some fantastic walking and swimming. We had intended to snorkel and sunset cruise but never quite managed to get going. It was a beautiful place. A reminder that consistently eschewing the popular might prevent you from seeing things that are popular for a damn good reason. I guess someday I'll have to get back and endure the lines at the Louvre, Notre Dame, and the catacombs...

wageni

Wageni is Swahili for tourists ('cause they come in wagons). Yesterday more guests arrived here. They are family from Oman (and N, our host is Zanzibarian). Mohammed, wife and seven children were in Zanzibar visiting family and then here over night before driving to 650km to Arusha. In Arusha they will visit more family and then take a trip to the Crater for safari.

We had dinner with the family and then lots of talking. Dinner was fish and potato rolls, chicken with coconut milk and spices, noodles that had a dessert-like quality, and chapatis (did you know that a direct translation of chapati is "push bread" - cause you gotta roll them to make them like that). And masala tea. Great for dipping your mendazi.

We heard history of Zanzibar (once a part of Oman and then in the revolution in '64 there was violence and many Arab Zanzibarians were killed). Things are much more settled now but Zanzibar is still the place most likely to get cranky during elections).

Last year the family went to Canada for a visit. The little boy last night was NOT excited about the safari because he thought it would be like the Granby Zoo (apparently he was not impressed). Also, he was told if he studied hard he could go to university in Canada like his uncle. He said if he did that he would have a swimming pool full of maple syrup.

We got to hang out with Babu some more. He is N's father and he is 96. Every morning he eats at 8, walks around the lot at 9 (he has the most gigantic sunglasses in the world - a Hintonburg hipster would ache with jealousy at the sight). Then he sits under the tree in the back near the parrot. Once the sun lets off a bit at 4pm, he heads out to the corner and sits with the shop keeper there until sunset (6:20ish). We're not sure because his accent is kind of hard to follow but we think he introduces us by saying: "these are our wazungu" (white people). Makes it sounds like we're pets which is kind of awesome. I feel like a) the folks here feel responsible for us negotiating life in Dar and b) we're a bit of a novelty act. Or something.

After folks went to bed I snuck out and went to the bar down the street (Mona's) and watched the Euro 2012 football (after African Big Brother was over; you can follow them on twitter). The bar closed up around me and then I scootched back home.

We're invited to Oman for a visit (though pick your spots, right now it's 45-50 degrees). Life is good.

ox tail

is ox tail actually the tail of oxen? Anyway, delicious. I tried to get Josey, who is mostly vegetarian, to have some because it's so very good. It was in the slow cooker all day. She had some and she was disgusted, "it tastes like fatty gravy". I get that part, but not the disgusting bit. That's just messed up.

full to bursting

Last year we were celebrating Josey's birthday here. We were having a small party at the house and then walking down the street to the Chinese restaurant (their eggplant dish is divine, however, if you put the leftovers in the fridge the fat congeals and it's sobering if not frightening). That was on a Thursday night; Friday we were heading to Mafia Island to do some pumzika-ing (resting and relaxing), diving, and whale-sharking.

I think the only time I have been able to pay for anything with a credit card is for flights on the internet with Coastal Airlines. Everything else is cash. Even for power or gas or cell service, you pay as you go, cash up front. Buy more when you run out. So...we had a party to prepare for and then a long weekend away. I went to get:

• as much money as I possibly could out of both of our accounts
• 24 beers
• a 26er of gin
• a 26er of vodka

The largest denomination of Tanzanian shillings is 10,000 (about $6.50 US). Walking home from the bank machine and liquor store was a journey for your intrepid adventurer of about four blocks. My pockets were jammed full of bills and my hands were full of booze. Firstly, I'm very much in the minority so some people are kind of checking out what the hell I'm up to anyway. Further, I felt a tad conspicuous carrying about two years salary and, just in case anyone missed it, an amount of liquor that most couldn't afford either.

That said, I wasn't worried about being robbed. The incidence of crime here is very small. There is a huge social stigma to it (much more than home or I wouldn't mention it) (perhaps everyone has to work so hard for theirs that the thought of someone stealing the fruits of their labour is especially repugnant). And, if someone is caught stealing they may get killed by a mob, or killed by the police, or killed in the 3rd worst prison system in Africa (which is probably lousy, I reckon). I did feel like a jackass though.  I felt like I was cruising around town in a stretch limo throwing money out of the sun roof.

does eat oats and little lambs eat ivy

When we got here there was the cutest little baby goat (I actually had to look up on the internet what a baby goat was called - I used to know things - I did). So, this kid, of which I don't have a picture because he was so little I thought he'd be around until the fall (until the Muslim holiday Eid, in fact), was just wandering around the compound (about two acres of high walls, beautiful gardens, kitty cats, guard dog, African Grey parrot, tortoises, quarters for workers, high shady trees, and small courtyard where I write blog posts from). Apparently, this was driving our Tanzanian mama and host, N, to distraction. Apparently, he doesn't just cut the grass but he also eats the flowers and vegetables.

The other day I wanted to head out and nobody could open the gate for me for a few minutes because they were dealing with the goat. eek! dealing with the goat! then the goat was carried out to a 4x4 by the legs with his head lolling back. I couldn't see blood though - because he was fine. He was going to N's aunt's farm! He'll be fine ... until Eid.

By the way, not unusual for random goats and chickens (even seen a cow but it was tied up) to be on the road side or in vacant lots. I don't know how everyone keeps track of whose is what but I guess they do.

ok, then

I just walked outside and the foreman guy was holding a slingshot and said, "I am hunting for the monkey".

That is all.

mud flaps

I'm creating a list of writing/mottos that I've seen on the mudflaps of dalla-dallas (buses).

• You'll Never Walk Alone
• Heil Hitler (pre and post-pended with requisite swastikas)

ok, it's not a big list yet. The Hitler one is obviously fascinating. I've seen it and its like a few times. I didn't get it at all. Thought maybe it was a anti-Semitic thing but have heard a better theory. Born from nihilism, it's been determined that it is the most likely to get a freak the hell out reaction from the white-folks. Which is entertaining.

charobaro

We took off from Canada at five to midnight on Monday and arrived in Dar at 2:35am on Wednesday morning. 9:30 from Toronto to Istanbul. 7:00 from Istanbul to Dar.

Wednesday night we went out for Brazilian barbecue close to the house. Thursday night we had sushi at Slipway after just missing the sunset and then went to Caribou Court to have drinks with Canadian CIDA and DFAIT workers. Friday night we met our lovely Acadian friends (again) and a Montrealer for a quiet night at Trinity (I didn't know they were having double g&t's so really it wasn't that quiet a night). Tonight is going to be a quiet night.

what I've learned:
- Brazilian barbecue has a great buffet and you get what looks like a coaster with green on one side and red on the other. Green means go and you get various kinds of meat (beef, lamb, shrimp, fish), which arrives on swords, until you turn your coaster over to the red side.
- a friend had two house guests arrive who had bicycled from Switzerland. They left in October and averaged 50km a day. And Tanzania had by the worst road safety, they had to pitch themselves off their bike to avoid being killed five or six times.
- there has been actual talk of putting a paved road through the Serengeti. Upon being warned that this would disrupt the migration, this was seen as a positive if it would prevent the migration from going to Kenya. sigh. (also, hey, what 5% of the roads in your biggest city are paved?)
- J has been researching places I can get my hair cut. Oyster Bay is the leading contender. They also have wifi and a new (air conditioned) gym.
- charobaro is a street term that pretty much means douchebag.
- jet lag is kicking my butt.  I'm sure it's that and not keggers with Canadians.
- my words are coming back. But I didn't have anything there when our Massai guard asked me how my trip was. (blahblah blah safiri?)